Smaller Clos fabrics are built with two layers of switches: leaf and spine switches. The oversubscription ratio you want to achieve dictates the number of uplinks on the leaf switch, which in turn dictates the maximum number of spine switches and thus the fabric size.
You have to use multi-stage Clos architecture if you want to build bigger fabrics; Brad Hedlund described a sample fabric with over 24.000 server-facing ports in the Clos Fabrics Explained webinar.
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